Sowa Pan Scramble | Scrambler 400 X Botswana, South Africa
We all crave adventure from time to time—perhaps more often than we admit—but life's responsibilities frequently push our dreams of exploration to the back burner. Despite these challenges, friends Paul Jacobs, Tinus van den Berg, Jarred Leslie, Joe Fleming, Devin Paisley, and Alex Torrão set out on an epic adventure. Armed with three Triumph Scrambler 400Xs, they tackle hundreds of kilometres across salt pans of Botswana, with a festival waiting on the horizon or was it just a mirage?
Day 1: Johannesburg to Elephant Sands Northeast of Botswana
“We loaded our bikes onto a trailer and set off in the early hours of the morning for a 15-hour drive. Our adventure was offcially beginning. Our destination: Elephant Sands, a remote gem nestled in the Northeastern corner of Botswana.
Arriving at Elephant Sands just before sunset, we were greeted by a sight that would become one of the trip’s most unforgettable moments.
As we got out of the vehicle, we couldn’t help but be captivated by the scene unfolding right in front of us. At the reception and restaurant area, we found ourselves mere meters away from a group of wild elephants at the watering hole. Sitting there, so close yet safely behind the almost invisible protective cable, was a surreal experience. The sheer majesty of these massive creatures in their natural habitat was amazing.
Our chalets were situated on the other side of the watering hole, and as we made our way to them after dinner, we encountered a new challenge: navigating around elephants! The gentle giants would wander between our chalets, making each trip to the vehicle an exercise in vigilance. Every step was taken with care, ensuring we didn’t inadvertently cross paths with an elephant heading to quench its thirst.
The elephants, unperturbed by our presence, went about their business as if we were just another part of the landscape. Their massive forms and gentle movements in the moonlight added a layer of awe to our already exhilarating adventure. Each moment spent observing them was a reminder of why we’d embarked on this journey in the first place: to experience the raw beauty of the natural world.
Our first day at Elephant Sands had set the bar high, and with the adventure ahead, it was clear that this trip would be full of moments that would linger in our memories for a lifetime.” said Tinus
Day 2: First day on the Scramblers. Destination: Gweta Lodge and Nwetwe Pan
“The morning after our night at Elephant Sands, we geared up for a new leg of our adventure. Our destination: Gweta Lodge, after which Joe had arranged for a fully catered camp setup on the Nwetwe Pan. This was set to be a highlight of our journey, offering an immersive experience in Botswana’s stunning wilderness.
Despite years of experience on adventure bikes, I was feeling a sense nervous excitement that morning. My prior off-road experience had mostly been on gravel, rocky and muddy terrain, I had not ridden sand aside from a brief introduction to sand riding. I was venturing into unfamiliar sandy tracks for the first time.
Our day began with a strong cup of coffee as we prepared our gear, adjusting the levers and settings on the bikes to suit everyone’s preferences. The final touch was letting the air out of our tires to better handle the sandy conditions ahead. After a hearty breakfast and a quick team briefing, we were set to tackle the day’s challenges.
The first test came almost immediately. The 2km stretch of sandy road leading out of Elephant Sands was a good taste of the terrain we’d be facing later in the day. We took it slow, getting a feel for the bikes and how they responded to the sandy surface.” Said Tinus
“Initially, the idea of riding the Scramblers startled me a bit. However, after a few kilometers of navigating thick sand and road riding, I quickly settled in and felt incredibly comfortable on the bike, especially given my height of 171cm. Off-road terrain had always been somewhat of a challenge for me due to my stature, but riding the Scrambler 400x in thick sand was a dream for several reasons. The bike proved to be extremely agile, with enough bottom-end torque to handle tricky situations and mid-range torque for steady riding.
I had experience with thick sand and knew that maintaining momentum was crucial. However, I also knew that when things went wrong, they went wrong quickly, often resulting in a mouthful of sand and a bruised ego. Fortunately, this time it was smooth sailing with no tumbles.” said Jarred
“From Elephant Sands we would travel on a tarred road to Gweta Lodge. The Scrambler 400x handled the highway speeds with impressive ease, showcasing its versatility and solid performance on diverse terrains. We arrived at Gweta Lodge for lunch, and still the group couldn’t help but feel nervously excited about what the rest of the day would bring, but the anticipation of tackling the unknown terrain and camping in such a remote and stunning location kept the spirits high.
The journey from the lodge to the Nwetwe Pan… Little did we know what awaited us beyond the tarred road, this would be the true test of our skills and the Scrambler 400x’s capabilities on the sand tracks and open pans of Botswana.
We dove straight into the heart of Botswana’s sandy wilderness. The sand tracks took us through the bush with endless options that kept us on our toes. With the support vehicles trailing behind, we were ready to tackle the terrain, though the journey promised to be as challenging as it was thrilling.
Joe, a veteran of Botswana’s sand trails, had thoughtfully shared a planned route with us.
As someone relatively new to sand riding, I found myself at the front, attempting to navigate the tricky tracks. Paddling with my feet to maintain balance, I was acutely aware of my novice sand status. My nerves and inexperience soon caught up with me, and despite my best efforts, I took a spectacular tumble—a true hero roll—across the sand and into the bush. We tried a new strategy: I would ride at the back while the group would head out in front and wait for guidance at each turn. This, however, led to another complication as the group began to split up. I noticed that the group had taken a wrong turn, and decided to try follow them to keep us together.
With the tracks of the group in front of me quickly becoming obscured by the shifting sand, I found myself not knowing where the group went. The challenge of locating the group sparked a renewed sense of determination in me. My goal became clear: find the group and get us back on track.
As the support vehicle caught up with me, we worked together to navigate the sand. I picked up the pace, which made a noticeable difference in concurring the sand. The adrenaline from riding faster through the sand boosted my confidence, and before long I had lost the support vehicles, I was on my own, trying to reconnect with the group.” Said Tinus
I navigated my way through the bush to the edge of Nwetwe Salt Pan. The vast expanse of the pan stretched out before me, and I took a moment to switch off the bike and absorb the breathtaking view and silence.
After about 15 minutes of soaking in the surroundings and listening for possible sounds of our group, I set off toward the last stretch onto the pan to the camping spot. Riding across the pan was an incredible experience, and arriving at the site where Gweta Lodge was busy setting up camp, the sun was getting low, getting ready to set across the pan. The view was nothing short of spectacular.”
“At one point, Paul and I having had enough of the thick sand, got carried away when we finally hit firmer ground. We took off in a direction where the gravel beneath us felt good and Scramblers were scrambling using trees and bushes as chess pieces, only to realize that no one had followed us and we had lead ourselves astray. As the sun was setting, we had left the group behind. We stopped for a few minutes to regroup when I faintly heard a bike in the distance and suggested to Paul that we should head in that direction.
With no clear path to follow, we cut through the barren terrain, hoping we were heading in the right direction.
Botswana is known for its magnificent Baobab trees, and while we had seen a few smaller ones, nothing compared to the enormous Baobab we came across. Approximately 70 feet in diameter, it was an amazing sight, especially considering we had lost the crew and hoping we were heading towards Nwetwe Pan.
After leaving the bush, we passed through a small settlement where we were greeted by goats and dogs that chased us off their land, merely escaping their jaws at our ankles as we road by.
As we approached the pan, I spotted some dust in my peripheral vision that seemed to be a car, though I wasn’t sure.
We finally reached an open piece of land and, to my relief, found Joe. After many kilometres of thick sand and thorn trees, I felt a sense of calm knowing we had found our leader who had all our stuff.” said Jarred
“In our adventure, we had one crucial rule: if we got lost, we would stick to the planned route and regroup at the destination. Keeping this in mind, I decided to cut across and head back to the route. The ride was exhilarating as I navigated my way through the bush to the edge of Nwetwe Salt Pan. The vast expanse of the pan stretched out before me, and I took a moment to switch off the bike and absorb the breathtaking view and silence.” Said Tinus
“Finally reaching the pan, I experienced an incredible feeling as I opened up the throttle on the Scrambler 400X. It felt like I was participating in a land speed record attempt, reminiscent of Triumph’s 1903 Bonneville Salt Flats run.” said Jarred
“Around 30 minutes later, the rumble of motorcycles on the pan announced the arrival of the rest of the group. They had navigated their own adventure to reach the pan, each with their own story of sand and adventure. The camaraderie of our collective journey was shared as we gathered around the camp fire, ready to tell tales of our individual experiences.
“As the sun set over the horizon, casting a golden glow across the pan, we knew that despite the challenges, the day had been an extraordinary testament to the capabilities of the Scrambler 400x and the spirit of adventure that drove us all.” said Tinus
Day 3: In search of the festival on Sowa Pan
“After an unforgettable night camping on Nwetwe Pan, we were ready to tackle the next leg of our journey. The plan for the day was to head to a festival on Sowa Pan, with a detour through the striking Kubu Island area. Following a breakfast prepared by the Gweta Lodge staff, we prepped our bikes by cleaning and lubricating the chains, and set out on the adventure for the day.
The route took us back into the sandy trails of the bush, weaving across various smaller pans in the southwest region of the Makgadikgadi Pans. It promised to be one of our most exhilarating riding days in Botswana, and the landscape did not disappoint. The vast expanses of the pans and bush made for a rewarding ride.
As we approached Kubu Island, however, our smooth ride hit a bump—literally. The frame of the bike trailer being towed by one of our support vehicles had developed a stress fracture, and the right hand side suspension had collapsed. With the trailer crucial for transporting our bikes back to Johannesburg, and being so remote, leaving it behind was not an option.
Resourcefulness kicked in. We scoured our surroundings and managed to find a solid piece of firewood. Using ratchet straps, we fashioned a makeshift support that held the trailer’s axle in place, allowing us to continue our journey. This quick fix turned into one of the day’s highlights, demonstrating our team’s ingenuity and determination.
Our convoy, now a true testament to improvisation, continued across Sua Pan, with bikes leading the way and the support vehicles flanking either side, the sight was both impressive and memorable. At Kubu Island we asked for directions to the festival, but a miscommunication led us astray.
The remoteness of the Botswana pans quickly became apparent as we found ourselves without connectivity to ask for more accurate directions, the trailer in a fragile state, the fuel levels on our bikes running low from the fun had on the pans, and no clear path to the festival. So we made the decision to head towards the nearest town.
As we travelled further, the Botswana pans, with their vast and rugged beauty, had not only treated us with amazing beauty, but they also reminded us of the thrill of exploration and the joy of the camaraderie that emerges when facing the unknown.
We arrived at the town of Serowe and fuel tanks were filled. The next priority was finding accommodation for the night. True to form, Joe, our ever-resourceful teammate, sprang into action to locate a place where we could stay for the night.
Joe quickly discovered a couple of options and made a few phone calls. Our first choice seemed promising, but they were not answering their phone, so we decided to head there directly to check for availability. As the sun dipped below the horizon, casting the landscape in twilight, the road to the campsite transformed into a sandy trail, adding an extra layer of adventure to our evening.
Riding the sand trail in the dark was exhilarating, with visibility reduced to the beam of the motorcycle headlights and the route unfamiliar. Unfortunately, when we finally reached the campsite, we found a locked gate and no one was around to welcome us or offer us a place to stay.
Not to be deterred, Joe quickly pivoted to the second option he had found. After a few more calls, we had a place to stay and headed towards the new campsite, which thankfully proved to be both welcoming and accommodating. The stars were out and the air was cool—a perfect setting for a campfire.
As soon as we were settled, Alex, who also happens to be a talented chef, took charge of the evening’s meal. He treated us to an exquisite chicken curry, the aroma of which mingled with the crackling of the campfire. It was a fitting end to a day filled with both trials and triumphs.
The camp fire’s warmth and Alex’s culinary skills provided the perfect end after a challenging day on the pans. As we gathered around, sharing stories of our adventures, telling jokes and reflecting on the day’s events, our adventure was almost coming to an end.
In the heart of Botswana, under a sky full of stars, we found not just a place to rest, but ended a memorable chapter in our adventure story on a high note.” said Tinus
Day 4: Joburg bound on the Scrambler 400x
“The final day of our Botswana adventure dawned with a sense of bittersweet excitement. We were set to cover the 7-hour journey from Serowe back to Johannesburg, marking the end of an epic exploration across the Botswana pans. Our adventure had been a testament to the capabilities of the Triumph Scrambler 400x.
Despite knowing that the road ahead was entirely tarred, we couldn’t resist the opportunity to extend our ride on the Scrambler 400x. The bike had performed brilliantly throughout our journey, and we wanted to give our exceptional support crew a chance to experience its impressive ride quality before we reached the border.
We decided to take turns riding the Scrambler 400x, ensuring that each member of our team could savor the experience. This wasn’t just about completing the trip; it was about celebrating the journey and the bike that had been a steadfast companion throughout. With its smooth handling and comfortable ride on the tarred road, the bike again proved to be just as enjoyable on highway stretches as it had been on the sandy trails and pans.
As we crossed the border into South Africa and made our way back to Johannesburg, the memories of our Botswana journey was a celebration of our adventure and the remarkable Scrambler 400x that had made it all the more memorable, we knew this journey would be etched in our memories for years to come.” Said Tinus
PHOTO CREDIT: DEVIN PAISLEY & JARRED LESLIE | VIDEO CREDIT: JOE FLEMING
